Showing posts with label Great Britain. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Great Britain. Show all posts

Wednesday, 1 November 2017

"God's own county" Yorkshire: Part One

Yorkshiremen have absolutely no hesitation in proclaiming Yorkshire as God's own county. Whether it is a legitimate claim or not? That's for anyone who dares debate the point with a born & bred Yorkshirian to answer. Let me know the outcome. 

An American decided to write a book
 about famous churches around the world, 
so he bought a plane ticket and took a trip to Rome. 

On his first day he was inside a church taking 
photographs when he noticed a golden telephone 
mounted on the wall with a sign that read $10,000 per call' 
The American, being intrigued, asked a priest who was 
strolling by what the telephone was used for. 

The priest replied that it was a direct line to 
heaven and that for $10,000 you could talk to God. 

The American thanked the priest and went along his way.

Next stop was in Moscow. There, at a very 
large cathedral, he saw the same golden telephone 
with the same sign under it. He wondered if this 
was the same kind of telephone he saw in Rome 
and he asked a nearby nun what its purpose was. 

She told him that it was a direct line to heaven 
and that for S10,000 he could talk to God. 

'O.K., thank you,' said the American. 

He then traveled to France, Israel, Germany and Brazil. 
In every church he saw the same golden telephone 
with a '$10,000 per call' sign under it. 
The American finally decided to travel to the UK to see 
if the British had the same phone. 
He arrived in York and again, in the Minster, 
there was the same golden telephone, but this time 
the sign under it read '20p per call.' The American was surprised 
so he asked the priest about the sign. 
'Reverend, I've traveled all over World and I've seen this same 
golden telephone in many churches. I'm told that it is a direct line to 
Heaven, but everywhere I went the price was $10,000 per call. 
Why is it so cheap here?' 

The priest smiled and answered, 

'You're in Yorkshire now Lad, - it's only a local call'.



We started at York's crowning jewel, the glistening York Minster.
The first church on this site was built in 627. Since then it has been damaged, destroyed, built and rebuilt numerous times. Much of the building was constructed between the 13th and 15th Century, and in 1472 the completed cathedral was consecrated. Today, York Minster requires a sum of 
£21, 000 per day to run. The restoration bills run into the millions. On more than one occasion it has had to be rescued from fire or near-collapse. But as one of Europe's finest Gothic cathedrals, it is more than worthy of the care, attention, and staggering cost.



The Nave

The Crossing

The King's Screen


Some of York Minster's 128 stained glass windows date back to the 12th Century. The famous Rose window was successfully saved from ruin by a fire ignited by suspected lightning strike in 1984. 

The Five Sisters Window

This series of windows dates from the mid-1200s and was removed during World War I to protect the stained glass from Zeppelin raids. It is the only memorial in England dedicated to commemorating the women of the British Empire who were killed during the Great War. Amongst the names inscribed on oak panelling beside the window is Edith Cavell- the British nurse who was shot in 1915 by German firing squad for her role in assisting 200 Allied soldiers to escape from German occupied Belgium. 


Climbing the 275 steps to the top of the central tower is a great, albeit blustery, way to take in the city from the highest point in York. 



From up here you can see the historic streets of York, parts of the city walls, the ruins of the Abbey of St Mary's, and on a clear day, as far away as the Yorkshire Dales.

If you're a National Trust member, The Treasurer's House, tucked in behind York Minster is very much worth a look. Historically the house was provided to the treasurer of York Minster, the man responsible for overseeing all of the finances relating to the Minster. Filled with beautifully ornate furniture and exquisite portraits, it was one of the very first properties complete with its land and all of its contents to be given intact to the National Trust.  


Of course, you can't visit York as a tourist without braving a walk down the best preserved mediaeval street in the world, The Shambles. Cheek by jowl, sightseers flock to see the crooked, slanting timber structures of what was once a row of butcher shops and homes. It is still possible in places to see the butcher hooks that the meat would have hung from.



'In some sections of the Shambles it is possible to touch both sides of the street with your arms outstretched.  The architecture which now appears so quaint had a very practical purpose.  The overhanging timber-framed fronts of the buildings are deliberately close-set so as to give shelter to the ‘wattle and daub’ walls below.  This would also have protected the meat from any direct sunshine.'


York is a bustling and lively city. You can't stand still for long, lest you get swept up in the crowds of tourists and locals alike, as they're funnelled through the narrow entanglement of streets in a city comprised of centuries upon centuries of layered history. 



Kate  x






Monday, 20 February 2017

From heat waves to snowdrops

I am back in the UK to very pleasant temperatures of around 11 degrees. That won't sound particularly pleasant to many people, but having just been plunged back into an unbearably hot Australian summer with temperatures hovering around 40 degrees for days on end, I am relishing the late winter/early spring days now that I am back in England.

What I am not relishing is the lingering jet lag. I just can't seem to shake it and get back to a sensible sleeping pattern. It didn't help that I landed at 6am on Friday after 24 hours of near-sleepless travel. I was full of good intentions to stay awake as much as possible and limit myself to a two hour nap...

Nine hours later, I woke at 8.20pm. Disaster. 

So on Saturday we devised a masterplan to get out in the cool, fresh air, admiring snowdrops as they come into their best. Crisp, clean, country air is a cure all. The snowdrops were a very pretty added bonus.


This is Cerney House Gardens in Gloucestershire. The woodland walk here is magical during snowdrop season. Great swaths of their pretty little blooms carpet the undergrowth, spilling down alongside muddy paths, and ring the bottom of ancient beech trees. 


I have great admiration for snowdrops. They defy the freezing overnight temperatures to be the first flower to bloom each year. The thick, sodden, decaying layer of autumn leaf and winter debris on the ground can't hold them back, they push through it all, heralding that spring is surely not too far away 
now.




Just about every churchyard in England is visited by snowdrops at this time of the year. It makes for a lovely atmospheric and poignant scene. The Victorians associated snowdrops with death, owing to the way the little bell-shaped flowers bow their heads just above graves, appearing to mimic mourners in churchyards. 


England, once again, delights as it shifts through the seasons. I thought my first autumn here was beautiful and surely couldn't be beaten. I can't imagine what true spring has in store.


Kate  x





Thursday, 3 November 2016

Fairy foot prints

November, autumn is surrendering to winter. The frosts have started, the leaves are in full colour, and Guy Fawkes Night is approaching. Autumn has been so full of treats though: warm days, golden colours, and new perspectives.


Before experiencing autumn in England I had only ever seen cyclamen in pots at florists and supermarkets, very uninspiring. Very Great Aunt Mabel. Here they carpet the undergrowth, unfazed by deep shade and cold nights. They contrast so brilliantly against their surroundings, like fairy foot prints in the lawn.


Kate x






Monday, 31 October 2016

Styling the seasons: October

Goodbye October.


You were magical.

Autumn is in full colour, the clocks have gone back, the mornings are thick and foggy. I don't mind, the seasonal shift is comforting in its own unique way. As the weather gets colder, we get closer to finding and moving to a more permanent home here in England. And that is something I am truly looking forward to. 


Kate  x

Tuesday, 18 October 2016

Punting through Cambridge

It is a cliche tourist thing to do, so we did it. In all honesty though, punting is a great way to see a lot of the iconic parts of Cambridge in a short amount of time whilst learning some fascinating history/statistics as you go. We booked a private tour which lasted about 45-50 minutes and took in all the bridges along the river Cam that are associated with the university colleges, all the big name colleges, as well as the Wren Library and the King's College Chapel.

^
The Bridge of Sighs connects the accommodation of St John's College (left) with the lecture/exam rooms (right), hence the 'sighs'.



^
This Virginia Creeper has totally taken over one entire side of this accommodation wing.

^
In the accommodation quadrangle of St John's.


St John's College's main rival is Trinity College, next door. Trinity is the largest, wealthiest and most awarded of the colleges. Amongst it's alumni it boasts:

32 Nobel prize winners, 
25 Olympians, 
6 British Prime Ministers, 
4 Oscar winners,

just to list a few. 
It's wealth is estimated at somewhere around 700-800 million pounds plus!

I have very few photos of Trinity College, we didn't tour inside it apart from going into the Wren Library which is every bit as amazing as you would imagine a Christopher Wren designed building to be. Unfortunately, but understandably, photographs inside the library aren't permitted. Inside we saw the 1926 hand written manuscript for Winnie the Pooh and a first edition Shakespeare.

King's College is perhaps one of the most iconic of the colleges, and it's chapel one of the most recognisable buildings in Cambridge.

^
The ceiling is breathtaking at 24 metres high, taking only three years to construct the fan vaults.


Come Christmas it will be all the more special to tune into the King's College Choir carols having been there this year.


As lovely and historic as Cambridge is though, I was very glad to escape the swarm of tourists and students for the peace and quiet of nearby Grantchester in the afternoon. We wandered the meadows along the Cam, poked about the vicarage, then had dinner at The Green Man.

^
Grantchester Meadows.


Kate  x






Thursday, 6 October 2016

Bath in early autumn


I went to Bath for the Royal Crescent, to see the unique architecture, and imagine my own Anne Elliot & Captain Wentworth moment. But like most longed for experiences, it is the things you didn't expect that leave the biggest impression on you.

My Bath Spa highlights were Prior Park and the Bath Abbey Tower tour.


Overlooking Bath and the Avon Valley in Prior Park. I arrived at 10am, and had the miles of woodland and sweeping vistas to myself. Such a special morning walking empty paths, silent but for the rustle of trees, birdsong and a few squirrels. I sat by the Palladian bridge for a long time soaking in the peace. This 18th century landscaped parkland had me swooning. It combines the absolute best of nature with spectacular views over Bath and the Avon Valley. The romance of these estates gets me. Every time. God bless the National Trust for keeping them safe.


The Bath Abbey Tower tour, perhaps the best £6 I've spent so far in England. I climbed the 212 winding, narrow, worn, steep steps to the Abbey roof. The views over Bath weren't even the best part. It was hearing the fascinating and lengthy history of the tower, the bells, the cathedral roof... It is easy to forget these architectural masterpieces were, and are, a living, functioning part of every day society. They absorb and reflect the ever evolving history of a city. What a fascinating way to spend an hour! One highlight was standing next to the bells as the 'Westminster chime' sounded. The history of the bells is in equal measure lovely and humorous.

The Bath Assembly rooms were very pretty, and a beautiful example of something central to the Georgian social scene. Jane Austen herself danced here.


This letter, written by Emma Thompson, displayed at the Jane Austen centre made me chuckle and nod in absolute agreement...


All in all a beautiful city. I will look forward to returning again, next time with Alex. I'll definitely do the tower tour again with him. I also purposely left the Roman Baths for when we are in Bath together.


Kate  x





Sunday, 2 October 2016

I'm so glad...

...I live in a world where there are Octobers.

I really am. October has a special place in my heart. But now I get to experience a bit of what L.M Montgomery meant when she wrote those words. She was speaking seasons. Or a seasonal shift that was special and unique to Octobers.

For the first time, I am getting to transition with autumn exactly as it unfolds in the northern hemisphere, with all the nuances that brings.


Friday, the eve of October, was a near perfect sunny day. I spent the afternoon sat next to the Thames with an old friend, drinking pimms and prosecco, soaking in the sunshine and company. We chatted for hours, watched swans drift by, and noted the barges on the river carrying peat and firewood for the coming cooler months.  

On Saturday morning Alex and I took the car out for a drive along the country lanes around Oxfordshire. It was misty, damp and very much a contrast to the previous afternoon. We started at the Chilterns and promptly let ourselves get lost somewhere between Henley and Reading. To be here on the cusp of autumn is such a treat. The harvest is done, the fields are empty of the summer crops, but the roadside still boasts cow parsley (Queen Anne's lace to all those back home), and the hedgerows are filled with blackberries. The hydrangeas are mottled and fading, tiny cyclamen carpet the undergrowth, unfazed by the deep shade and dim light cast by trees.

The trees are just on the turn. What a show is still to come.

Tomorrow I head for Bath.


Kate  x

Wednesday, 28 September 2016

New adventures

We made it!

Henley-on-Thames

Almost a week in and jet lag free (long may that continue), we are settling in and tackling administrative chores. I haven't really given my camera much of a work out yet, but with a trip to Bath, and perhaps Cambridgeshire in the very near future, that will change soon and i'll be over-sharing.


Kate  x