Yew trees and snowdrops

Painswick had been on my 'to visit' list for well over a year. I'd been patiently waiting for snowdrop season to come around again before making the trip up into Cotswold heartland. Painswick is a handsome village, beautifully situated in the verdant Cotswold Hills, with renowned walking routes on the doorstep and stunning countryside views. She is the undisputed 'Queen of the Cotswolds'. 

Our main focus on this trip was seeing the famous snowdrop display at Painswick Rococo Garden. An impressive carpet comprised of millions & millions of tiny white blooms cascaded down slopes and spread through the wooded undergrowth of the garden. But unexpectedly, it was the yew trees in the churchyard of St Mary's that emerged as the highlight of our visit.

For a long time, 99 yew trees grew in this churchyard, and according to legend if a hundredth tree was to be planted the devil would destroy it. At the turn of the new millennium every parish in the diocese of Gloucester was presented with a yew tree to plant to mark the occasion. Parish officials faced a dilemma... 

Painswick was chosen to host the blessing of these trees as they were handed out to the various parishes. The 100th tree was planted at the start of the new millennium and, contrary to the often cited legend, is growing well. 

The trees are clipped every September, producing in excess of 2 tonnes of yew clippings. These clippings are actually used in the manufacture of an anti-cancer drug, specialist contractors are employed to process the clippings.

I look forward to a return visit one day, hopefully in late spring when the Cotswold Way is lush and overgrown with wildflowers and the day light stretches late into the evening. 

Kate  x

"God's own county" Yorkshire: Part Two

On the cusp of Samhain as the sun goes down, the floodlit remains of a tenth century monastery takes on an other worldly atmosphere. We arrived at the ghostly ruins of Fountains Abbey as the sky turned to pastel shades of pink and blue, and stayed until the clouds began to part and the stars appeared above us. 

Seeing the silhouette of the abbey against the darkening sky as monastic hymns carried through the ruins was incredibly magical.

We sat in a now-empty window of what was once the cellarium, where the Benedictine monks would have eaten and slept, to hear the choir perform their beautiful music. 

And with another Samhain observing the end of the harvest season behind us, we now begin to think of all things Christmas.

Kate  x

Bath in early autumn

I went to Bath for the Royal Crescent, to see the unique architecture, and imagine my own Anne Elliot & Captain Wentworth moment. But like most longed for experiences, it is the things you didn't expect that leave the biggest impression on you.

My Bath Spa highlights were Prior Park and the Bath Abbey Tower tour.

Overlooking Bath and the Avon Valley in Prior Park. I arrived at 10am, and had the miles of woodland and sweeping vistas to myself. Such a special morning walking empty paths, silent but for the rustle of trees, birdsong and a few squirrels. I sat by the Palladian bridge for a long time soaking in the peace. This 18th century landscaped parkland had me swooning. It combines the absolute best of nature with spectacular views over Bath and the Avon Valley. The romance of these estates gets me. Every time. God bless the National Trust for keeping them safe.

The Bath Abbey Tower tour, perhaps the best £6 I've spent so far in England. I climbed the 212 winding, narrow, worn, steep steps to the Abbey roof. The views over Bath weren't even the best part. It was hearing the fascinating and lengthy history of the tower, the bells, the cathedral roof... It is easy to forget these architectural masterpieces were, and are, a living, functioning part of every day society. They absorb and reflect the ever evolving history of a city. What a fascinating way to spend an hour! One highlight was standing next to the bells as the 'Westminster chime' sounded. The history of the bells is in equal measure lovely and humorous.

The Bath Assembly rooms were very pretty, and a beautiful example of something central to the Georgian social scene. Jane Austen herself danced here.

This letter, written by Emma Thompson, displayed at the Jane Austen centre made me chuckle and nod in absolute agreement...

All in all a beautiful city. I will look forward to returning again, next time with Alex. I'll definitely do the tower tour again with him. I also purposely left the Roman Baths for when we are in Bath together.

Kate  x